Rethinking textile fashion: New Materiality, Smart Products, and Upcycling

Authors

  • Antti Ainamo

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.3384/svid.2000-964X.14253

Keywords:

Upcycling, Smart textile, Smart fashion, Sustainability, New materialisms

Abstract

Manufacturing operations in much of textile fashion have migrated from the developed economies to developing countries in search of cost economies. Consideration for the natural environment has been lost in the process due to lack of clarity what corporation or some other participant in what kind of an economy is most responsible.

This paper is intended as a thought piece on how new materialisms offers an approach to bring back responsible concern for the natural environment in textile fashion and, perhaps, beyond.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Ahmed, S. (2010) Orientations matter. In D. Coole & S. Frost (eds.) New Materialisms: Onthology, Agency, and Politics. Durham: Duke University Press.

Albinsson, P. & Perera, B. (2012) Alternative marketplaces in the 21st century: Building community through sharing events, Journal of Consumer Behavior, 11(4): 303-315.

Allwood, J.M., Laursen, S.E., Russell, S.N., Malvido de Rodrigues, C. & Bocken, N.M.P. (2008) An approach to scenario analysis of the sustainability of an industrial sector applied to clothing and textiles in the UK, Journal of Cleaner Production, 16:1234-1246.

Allwood, C. K., et al. (2006) Well Dressed? The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom, University of Cambridge. Institute for Manufacturing, Cambridge

Beauvoir, Simone de (2012) The Second Sex. New York: Random House.

Boscia, T. (2014) Sustainable chic: College designers and scientists fashion a second life for textile waste, Human Ecology, Vol. 42, No. 1, 10.

Cheah, P. (2008) Non-dialectical materialism, Diacritics, Vol. 38, (1-2) 143-157. (Reprinted in D. Coole & S. Frost, eds., (2010), New Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Durham: Duke University Press, 70-91.

Chomsky, N. (2011) Crisis and hope: Theirs and ours, in Best, S. Kahn, R, Nocella AJ II & McLaren P (eds.) The Global Industrial Complex: Systems of Domination, New York: Lexington Books, 1-24.

Coole, D. &Scott, S. (eds.) (2010) New Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Duke University Press.

Deleuze, G. (1994) Difference and Repetition. Translated by P. Patton. New York: Columbia University Press.

Deleuze, G. (1992) Ethnology: Spinoza and Us, in J. Crary and S. Kwinter (eds.) Incorporations. New York: Zone Books, 628-633.

Deleuze, G. & Guattari, F. (1988) A Thousand Plateaus: Capitalism and Schizophrenia. Trans. B. Massumi. Minneapolis: U of Minnesota Press.

Derrida, J. (1978) Writing and Difference. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

Djelic, M-L. & Ainamo, A. (2005) The telecom industry as cultural industry? The transposition of fashion logics into the field of mobile telephony, Research in the Sociology of Organizations, 23, 45-80.

Edwards, J. (2010) The materialism of historical materialism, in D. Coole & S. Frost (eds.), New Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Durham: Duke University Press: 280-298.

Ericsson, A. & Brooks, A. (2014) African second-hand clothes: Mima-te and the development of sustainable fashion, in K. Fletcher & M. Tham (eds.), Routledge Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion. London: Routledge: 91-99.

Farren, A. & Hutchison, A. (2004) Digital clothes: Active, dynamic, and virtual textiles and garments, Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 2(3): 290-306.

Fletcher, K. (2013) Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. London: Routledge

Fry, T. (2009) Design Futuring: Sustainability, Ethics and New Practice. New York: Berg.

Gereffi, G. & Frederick, S. (2010) The global apparel value chain, trade and the crisis: challenges and opportunities for developing countries, Policy Research Working Paper, Washington D.C.: World Bank.

Hanna, R. (2012) Parametric tools in architecture: A comparative study, Design Research, 12(1): 39-47.

Hemmings, J. (ed.) (2012) The Textile Reader. New York: Berg.

Ingold, T. (2010) The textility of making, Cambridge Journal of Economics, 34 (1): 91-102.

Jonson, L. (2012) Many design challenges in the health care sector, Design Research, 12(1): 4-8.

Kaufmann, L. (2003) Xelibri: A Siemens Mobile Adventure. Case 303-074-1 European Case Clearing House.

Kotler, P. (2000) Marketing Management Millenium Edition, Tenth Edition. Prentice-Hall.

Karft, K. (2004) Textile patterns and their epistemological functions, Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 2(3): 274-289.

Kruks, S. (2010), Simone de Beauvoir: Engaging discrepant materialism, in D. Coole & S. Frost (eds.), New Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Durham: Duke University Press, 258-280.

Moor, T., A. Weber-Mann, A. & Häberle, J. (2012) An aesthetic approach to the use of textiles in architecture, in J. Redström, A. Valtonen & H. Wiltse (eds.) DRS 2012 Design's Big Debates: Pushing the Boundaries of Design Research, Umeå: Umeå Institute of Design /Design Research Society.

Marcuse, H. (1991) One-Dimensional Man: Studies in the Ideology of Advanced Industrial Society. 2d ed. Boston: Beacon, 1991.

Niinimäki, & Hassi, L. (2011) Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing, Journal of Cleaner Production, 19(16): 1876-1883.

O'Connor, K. (2010) How smart is smart? T-shirts, wellness, and the way people feel about "medical" textiles, Textile – The Journal of Cloth & Culture, 8(1): 50-66.

Porter, M.E.& Heppelmann, J.E. (2014) How smart, connected products are transforming competition, Harvard Business Review, Nov.

Rivoli, P. (2009) The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power and the Politics of World Trade. London: John Wiley.

Quinn, B. (2010) Textile Futures: Fashion, Design and Technology, by B. Quinn. Oxford: Berg.

Sartre, J.-P. (1968) Search for Method. Translated by H.E. Barnes. New York. Vintage Books.

Tang, S. & Stylios, G.K. (2006) An overview of smart technologies for clothing design and engineering, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18(1-2):108-128.

Downloads

Published

2014-12-01

Issue

Section

Research articles